Good burritos, period, at Big Ten

Campus-area spot knows its specialty well; other entrees are also worthy

 

Thursday, August 5, 2004 BY WILL STEWART Ann Arbor News Special Writer

 

To say that the dining room - such as it is - at Big Ten Burrito is just about the same size as one of the eatery's enormous namesakes is in no way meant to imply anything bad.

 

But that's one huge burrito.

 

Big Ten is one of those quintessential college-town spots and it fits right in on South State Street, just north of Packard Street, along with institutions like Mr. Spots and the Coach and Four barber shop. In fact, given Ann Arbor's increasing corporatization and gentrification, this one-block stretch remains one of the few oases of college-town charm left around campus.

 

What's more, the fast-food fare is cheap and, well, delicious, in an authentic way.

 

The menu at Big Ten is refreshingly straightforward; burritos come in a half-dozen varieties, including steak, chicken, veggie, the "classic" beans-salsa-cheese combination or a combination of any of these.

 

An extra buck adds sour cream and salsa. Three extra dollars brings the "giant" burrito, made with two tortillas, as well as sour cream and salsa. (We didn't try the giant burrito, having been unable to finish the enormous regular, which is big enough around as to require two hands to lift out of the simple plastic basket in which it is served.)

 

At too many restaurants, huge portions mean sacrificing quality food. Not true at Big Ten, where fresh ingredients; quick, friendly service; and a pleasant, if spartan, atmosphere, are part of the package.

 

Literally within seconds of placing our sizable order, our food arrived at a space conveniently vacated just in time for us to sit.

 

We particularly enjoyed the steak burrito, filled with pinto beans, rice, salsa, shredded cheese and hearty strips of tender, seasoned steak, all of which combined into a robust stew surrounded by a flavorful flour tortilla. Interestingly, the marinated steak was almost Asian in flavor, tasting like something from a Chinese stir fry.

 

A chicken burrito was more traditional, sharing the same ingredients, save for generous, equally flavorful - if more traditional tasting - chunks of white-meat chicken.

 

We were pleasantly surprised by the chicken nachos, which are also available in veggie or beef varieties. They arrived not as plates of melted cheese atop rubbery chips, but, rather, as a basket of crisp chips covered with chicken, pinto beans, guacamole, salsa and refreshingly unmelted cheese. As a result, the dish resembled a taco salad more than standard nachos - and it was delicious.

 

We also loved the plain cheese quesadilla. Nothing fancy here - although it's available in chicken, steak, roasted veggie and spinach-mushroom varieties - just flavorful melted chihuahua cheese sandwiched between two flour tortillas. Just the way a quesadilla is supposed to be prepared, yet seldom is.

 

There's nothing fancy about Big Ten. A single, long table occupies the dining room, allowing (or, depending upon one's perspective, forcing) diners to mingle with other parties as they enjoy their food. We liked the sense of camaraderie the dining situation presents, although take-out is available for those who prefer a little more privacy.

 

Big Ten is open until 4 a.m., providing post-bar and all-night study crowds a unique alternative to other after-hours fare.

We expected a little less of Big Ten Burrito, given its obvious fast-food leanings. So we were pleasantly surprised not only by the level of service - fast, friendly and helpful - but also with the quality of the ingredients.